Thursday, March 22, 2007

SHOW & RECIPE FOR MARCH 31

THE GREAT GADSBY
Chef Robert Gadsby, who came to Houston from his native Cockney London by way of Los Angeles, has learned a thing or two about local tastes since opening Noe at the Omni Riverway. He still loves to create personalized tasting menus of 5, 7, 12 or maybe, if you like, 1,413 courses. But he recently started offering an a la carte menu as well, for diners who might want just a salad and a nice steak. It’s all part of the journey for Gadsby, one of the smartest chefs we know – even if he does sometimes sound like Dick Van Dyke in “Mary Poppins.”

WORK DU SOLEIL
It’s back! The magnificent entertainment juggernaut known as Cirque du Soleil has taken time off from its Vegas extravaganzas to create a big new traveling show called “Corteo” – and, as always, Houston is lucky enough to get it here for about a month. This time, the troupe is setting up its signature Grand Chapiteau in northwest Houston, at Sam Houston Race Park, and counting on us to beat a freeway to its door. We chat with Corteo artistic coordinator Richard (that’s Ree-SHARD!) Dagenais about what it takes to coax magic out of 55 artists from 16 countries up to 10 shows a week.

BUBBLES FROM CHAMPAGNE
We don’t buy into every “trademark” claim food and wine people aim in our general direction, including complaints we’ve heard about Parmesan cheese or prosciutto that isn’t from Parma or even about “Alfredo sauce” not made by people who bought the rights from Alfredo himself in Rome. Still, we have always accepted that the only actual champagne comes from the Champagne region of France. In today’s Grape & Grain segment, we sit down for a tasting of some of the best and brightest “real French champagnes” with the “real French people” who make them.

This Week’s Delicious Mischief Recipe…
GULF COAST CHOUCROUTE GARNI

If you’ve still got a head of cabbage (or two) left from St. Patrick’s Day but can’t face another watery New England-style “boiled dinner,” you should try combining the rustic goodness of Alsatian choucroute garni with the robust flavors of the Gulf Coast. Trust us: this won’t feel like famine at all!

1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound smoked sausage, cut into 2-inch lengths
3 small yellow onions, roughly chopped
Creole seasoning to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3-4 large carrots, chopped into 2-inch lengths
2 large baking potatoes, cut into 2-inch cubes
½ cup dry white wine
1 head cabbage, core removed, roughly chopped
1 (14.5-ounce) can chicken broth

Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven and brown the lengths of sausage until flecks of char appear, then stir in the onions and cook until golden and deeply caramelized. Season to taste with Creole seasoning and black pepper. Add the garlic, carrots and potatoes and stir over high heat until browned, 6-8 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the white wine, letting it start to steam the vegetables. Scrape up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add chopped cabbage and stir to combine with the other vegetables. Let cabbage sauté briefly, then pour in the chicken broth. Thoroughly incorporate. Season again with Creole seasoning and black pepper. Cover pot, reduce heat and let steam until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Serve sausage and vegetables in bowls with broth. Serves 6.

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