OUR REVIEW OF PICAZO

Pablo Picasso’s most famous child is named Paloma – a fact that plays pleasurably around your mind as you enjoy the newly minted artistry of Alejandro Picazo and David Palomo. Working in the shadows of Minute Maid Park, the two veterans of fine dining both here and elsewhere have crafted a casual, something-for-everyone destination eatery that works before or after an Astros game or as an entire evening’s sport. And if you think more than once of the 20th century’s best-known artist or his daughter’s line of fragrances, that’s probably all right with the partners as well.

Most of the lineage behind the project is Spanish, like Picasso himself. And there’s definitely something from contemporary Spain about the surroundings, blending comfortable elements of stylish city-tapas-bar-meets-rustic-village-bodega. The feeling is one in which you are welcome, with none of that fear of needing to dress up, study cooking at the CIA or take out a home equity loan. The idea is straightforward. It’s easy and pleasant to be sitting inside Picazo with a glass or three of red wine, and the owners hope you’ll choose to be there often – not just on those mythical but too-far-distant special occasions.

Still, when it comes to firepower in food and service, it’s worth remembering that Picazo spent considerable time at the old Aldo’s Dining con Amore on lower Westheimer, the place that played host to $20,000 dinners of Enron deal-closing. That company, those days and that restaurant are all gone now, which is probably just as well. Few restaurants give no thought to prices anymore; and in the case of Picazo, we certainly approve of both the affordability and the quality on each plate. Along the same lines, we’re delighted (personally as well as professionally) with their interpretation of World Cuisine – Spanish, Italian and Latin American. Any restaurant that has steaks this good, plus pizzas and pastas – plus tortilla chips, salsa, guacamole and the best seafood enchiladas we’ve ever tasted seems poised to establish itself as a regular hangout for many Houstonians.


Appetizers at Picazo ramble around the globe, from something as close as New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp to sashimi-like “Spanish” tuna cubes that are actually more Asian: thick (maybe too thick) squares of glorious tuna waiting for us at the end of a bamboo skewer with soy, sesame seeds and shaved ginger that’s been crystallized into something with the texture of sea salt. As we say, there are all the standard-issues Tex-Mex starters, even chile con queso. But perhaps the best appetizer is the fried calamari. Though a typical marinara version is offered, turn it down in favor of the Asianized sauce of sweet chili and tamarind. If there were such as thing as General Tso’s Calamari, it would taste a lot like this.

Several popular pastas are served, including one with seafood that’s patterned after the flavors of Spanish paella. Our favorites, though, come from closer to the Italian wellspring from which Aldo’s drew inspiration, the absolute best being pasta (make it penne, please) alla Russa. Whether the name is supposed to be spelled Russa (implying Russian, as in the dressing) or Rossa (as in red or pink from tomato), this penne tossed in a creamy tomato sauce with pancetta and parmesan, plus chicken or shrimp if you want it to be your entree, is a dish we’ll go back for again and again. From the pizza list, be sure to try the Mediterranean, its roasted tomato sauce holding together goat cheese and fresh herbs, plus roasted pequillo peppers, plus an expected side of spicy aioli, presumably for dipping. It all works.

Not surprisingly, one of our favorite parts of this or any other menu is the section called “TexMex & Mexican.” Here you find several of Picazo’s instant greatest hits, including those seafood enchiladas (lobster, shrimp and crabmeat) all lushly bedded down in creamy cilantro sauce, and their versions of chiles en nogado, the peppers stuffed with piccadillo and topped with plenty of a pecan sauce. If you think this restaurant is too “nice” to be serving Tex-Mex, happily you need to think again: both the cilantro-kissed Mexican rice and the refried beans with crumbled cheese are traditional and terrific. Of the seafood entrees, the salmon al champagne and the snapper Picazo (topped with more creamy cilantro sauce) are the standouts. Unless you get waylaid by the wonderful chicken piccata, you carnivores out there are sure to find happiness with the 22-ounce Chicago-cut rib chop. With any meat or no meat at all, be sure to order the three-cheese au gratin potatoes. You’ll thank me later.