Sunday, December 09, 2007

SHOW & RECIPE FOR DEC. 22

Today’s Delicious Mischief comes to you from our state’s capital, Austin, recently improved immeasurably by the opening of three Spec’s stores.

A CHEF’S NEW SEASON
Every so many years, at a luxury hotel like the downtown Four Seasons towering above Austin’s Town Lake, it’s simply time for a change. That’s what the powers-that-be decided here recently. That’s what they put their money behind. And that’s what they entrusted to German-born executive chef Elmar Prambs – who has embraced more than a few such changes in his two-plus decades at the Austin property. For our money, the versatile new space called Trio is the hotel’s finest “fine dining” effort yet.

MORE CHANGE AMID CONTINUITY
In recent years, one of the big reasons people came to Austin from elsewhere to eat was the Driskill Grill, stationed at the heart of the history-laden Driskill Hotel. The executive chef for much of this time was David Bull, landing his smiling face on the cover of Food and Wine for his creative use of Texas ingredients and his spirited updates on that first generation of “New Texas Cuisine” – Robert Del Grande, Dean Fearing and Stephan Pyles. We sit down for a tasting with new Driskill Grill chef Josh Watkins, to learn (among others good things) that he was doing lots of cooking and creating in Bull’s kitchen all along.

BARBECUE MOVIN’ ON UP
It’s part of a trend we’re seeing in all the major cities of Texas: traditional Lone Star barbecue treated with respect but also lifted from its casual nature by the use of fresh ingredients, imaginative sauces and a rainbow of meat-friendly appetizers, side dishes and desserts. Some folks call this “fancy barbecue,” and Lou Lambert in Austin’s born-again East End doesn’t mind that one bit. We sit down with Lou at Lambert’s to talk carefully about definitions. Still, with Lou’s background on a West Texas ranch, no one is going to “define” barbecue as anything but his native cuisine.

This Week’s Delicious Mischief Recipe…
SMOKED SAUSAGE QUESO

3/4 pound Texas smoked sausage
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup finely chopped red onion
½ cup finely chopped green bell pepper
3 cups heavy cream
2 ½ cups shredded Monterey Jack
2 ½ cups shredded Pepper Jack
2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
½ cup chopped green onions
Tortilla chips

In a food processor, pulse the sausage into a fine crumble. Heat the olive oil in a skillet and brown the sausage over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper, stirring until caramelized, 4-5 minutes. Add the cream, reduce heat to medium and whisk to incorporate. Gradually add in the cheese, stirring until melted and incorporated. Thicken with the dissolved cornstarch. Garnish with green onion. Serve in a bowl with tortilla chops. Serves 10-12.

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