SHOW & RECIPE FOR JAN. 12

MAKING THIS ABACUS COUNT
Today’s Delicious Mischief comes to you from our neighboring Metroplex to the far north, Dallas. We began our eating and drinking tour at one of the city’s best-known fine-dining hot spots, Chef Kent Rathbun’s Abacus. To his credit, Kent refuses to fuse – so “fusion” is not a word he wants to hear about his food. Still, the confluence of many American and European classics given a twist with some of the finest sushi we’ve had anywhere certainly makes you stop and think. When it comes to cuisine, sometimes it IS a small world after all.

MASTERS OF THE MARTINI
We don’t approve of drinking and driving, of course, but when we’re in Dallas and want a martini, a drive just might be in the offing. Up in Plano we find one of the most off-the-wall, over-the-top tributes to the born-again American cocktail ever, a place called Martini Park. We were intrigued enough by the now-accepted notion that anything served in a martini glass is by definition IS a martini. But we forgot even that when we took a look at the food menu, a list of dishes concocted for their ability to pair with martinis. What a tasty concept that proved to be!

CENTER OF IT ALL
Executive chef Tom Fleming comes to his duties at Central 214 after a host of exciting opportunities, both in north Texas and in Chicago. In the latter city, in fact, his food helped chef/proprietor Jean Joho of Everest win a James Beard Best New Restaurant Award for the newer place called Brasserie Jo. Fleming carries this French training into the American food he cooks at Central 214, located in the chic and centrally located Hotel Palomar. Listening to him is hearing the many “fresh, local, seasonal” mantras of today’s American chef.

This Week’s Delicious Mischief Recipe…
BOILED BEEF WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE AND STEAMED CABBAGE

2 ½ quart water
3 pounds boneless beef rump
1 medium size carrot, peeled and sliced
2 leeks, cut in half, washed and sliced
2 turnips, peeled and sliced
½ cup chopped parsley
1 bay leaf
10 pepper corns
2 teaspoon salt
1 medium head of white cabbage

Horseradish Sauce:
½ stick of butter
¼ cup flour
2 cups beef stock
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup prepared horseradish
1 bay leave
Salt and pepper to taste

Place the water in a medium size pot or Dutch oven; add the meat, carrots, leeks, parsnips, peppercorns, bay leaf and salt. Bring the broth to a boil, lower the heat and simmer uncovered for about two hours, skimming the top occasionally to remove any scum. When cooked (the meat should be fork tender) remove the meat, vegetables, and place on a platter, cover with foil and keep warm. Reserve the beef stock. Cut the cabbage in half, and remove the core. Slice each half into 3 wedges and place in a shallow casserole; strain 2 cups of the reserved beef stock over it. Cover the casserole and steam over low heat for 30 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender.

To make the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Blend in the flour and cook the roux for two minutes. Mix in two cups of hot beef stock and cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Combine with the horseradish and cream, mix well, add salt and pepper to taste. To serve, place the steamed cabbage wedges on a heated serving platter, slice the beef across the grain about ¼ inch thick, and arrange the slices over the cabbage. Arrange the vegetables around the beef, top with a little broth, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve with the horseradish sauce. Serves 6.